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Thursday, July 24, 2014

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions
Can you send a catalog and prices?

Renee Williams has a start up from Gastonia, North Carolina, USA. She asked about a garment catalog in Vietnam. On 23 Dec 2013 she wrote, "I would like yo have your catalog and pricing for garment production in Vietnam."

What is your minimum order quantity (MOQ)?

Hannah Marzec is a start up company from Sydney, Australia. On 21 Dec 2013 Hannah asked, "what is the minimum quantity to purchase with any of the factories in your network?"
Christopher Walker

Printed lycra fabric in Vietnam?

Tania Delgado is a start up brand owner based in Hanoi, Vietnam. On 20 Dec 2013 she asked about printed lycra fabric in Vietnam. On 21 Dec 2013 she asked, "Hi Chris, I am a designer starting up a sports, yoga, fun clothing line. I live in Hanoi and i am looking for printed or simple lycra, stretch fabric. Do you have this type of fabric? or can you produce for me?"

How can I easily visit many garment factories in Vietnam?

Pedro Vicuna is a start up wholesaler based in Chile. On 20 Dec 2013 Pedro asked about garment factory tours in Vietnam. He posted the following question on the apparel sourcing Vietnam frequently asked questions, "Hello, how much time it takes for visiting some factories? I am looking around if I can get good rates for starting a textile business in Chile. How much will a garment factory tour in Vietnam cost?"

Can I produce sublimated fleece hoodies, t-shirts, or crew neck in Vietnam?

Eileen Ayala is a start up brand owner from Signal Hill California. On 19 Dec 2013 she asked about sublimated garments in Vietnam. She posted the following question on the apparel sourcing Vietnam frequently asked questions. "I am looking for someone who does sublimation on fleece hoodies, t-shirts, crewneck sweaters, tank tops, blazers and also does cut ad sew. I own a clothing brand that will be launching in February. Unfortunately the company we were manufacturing from is no longer available. Our quantity ranges between 50-100 pieces."

Where can I buy Pima Cotton in Vietnam?

Pima cotton, named in honor of the Pima Indians, is a generic term for extra-long staple cotton grown in parts of the southwestern United States, Australia and Peru. This type of cotton is one of the longest cotton staple lengths in the world and is among the softest and most durable of the cotton fibers. Pima grows best in warm, humid climates. It's considered to be one of the finest cottons available.
Where can I buy it?
1. Alibaba: You can go to www.alibaba.com and search with the keyword phrase "Pima cotton supplier". You will see the results related to the keywords from Alibaba and your job is to visit and choose the supplier suits you.
2. Global Source: You go to www.globalsources.com and search with the same keyword phrase.
3. Google Search

There always seem to be confusion when the word "knitwear" is used. Everyone can clearly distinguish between woven and knitwear but there is confusion when defining the type of knitwear one is talking about. There is circular knitwear and flat knit wear. Flat knit wear is sometimes referred to as fully fashioned knitwear.
In Europe, some people refer to circular knit as Jersey or cut and sew. Jersey is the most popular circular knit structure and cut and sew makes sense because you have to cut the fabric and then sew it. As opposed to flat knit where the garment comes out of the machine per the pattern and panels only have to be linked.

Circular Knit machines work on gauges from 21 guage to 32 guage
Flat Knit Machines work on gauges from 2 guage to 18 guage


In Vietnam there are many companies doing both types of knitting.

Here is a circular knit machine


Here is a flat knit machine

What is ITY Fabric?

What is ITY yarn and can it be used for dye sublimation?

ITY stands for Interlock Twist Yarn and is a method of putting a twist in yarn used for knit fabrics which gives this fabric some wonderful characteristics. The yarn is made up of both POY and FDY filaments with varying dernier and filament counts. The result is more natural elasticity and a soft feel inside & out.

ITY knits will not pill or cling and resists wrinkles. These fabrics are great to sew with and have excellent drape, stretch and recovery. It is a very stable fabric that is easy to cut, sew and holds a press.

They can be dye sublimated but because the surface is rougher than most polyesters the images are not as clear and crisp.
Christopher Walker

Texturized Polyester Yarn

Polyester filaments are naturally very smooth and straight. To give them a more "fabric - like - feel" the polyester filaments are textured. Texturing is the formation of crimp, loops, coils, or crinkles in filaments. Such changes in the physical form of a fibre (several examples of which are shown in Figure 3) affect the behaviour and hand of fabrics made from them. Hand, or handle, is a general term for the characteristics perceived by the sense of touch when a fabric is held in the hand, such as drapability, softness, elasticity,...

Garment sublimation printing in Vietnam?

Today, we did some research on the topic of "what is the best polyester fabric to use for garment sublimation printing in Vietnam?" Most companies like Vapour Apparel and Carvico who sell fabric specifically made for dye sublimation only tell you that their fabric is made of "polyester;" in fact there are many varieties of polyester and the topic gets complicated fast. So here is my polyester 101 ...

There are two types of polyester yarns: filament and spun.Filament Poly is made with filament yarns by taking the single polyester filaments, grouping them together and then twisting or air-entangling them to make them workable. A monofilament yarn has just one, single polyester fiber that is usually not twisted. The basic types of filament poly is POY, FDY(aka SDY), ITY or DTY.

Ring Spun Poly Spun yarns are produced in much the same way as a cotton or wool yarn is produced. The long filaments are first cut into short pieces called staples. These are then combined together and spun to create a yarn made up of thousands of short filaments. The hand feel of Ring Spun Poly is similar to cotton whereas filament poly is more like silk.

FDY is the abbreviation for Polyester Fully Drawn Yarn. It is also know as Polyester Filament Yarn (PFY) or Spin Draw Yarn (SDY). FDY is mainly used as weft or weaves in making fabrics. FDY can be knitted. It can be bright, dull or semi-dull.

Drawn Textured Yarn (DTY) yarn is obtained when Polyester POY is simultaneously twisted & drawn. DTY yarn is mainly used in weaving & knitting of fabrics for making clothes... DTY yarn can be in Semi Dull or Bright or Trilobal Bright depending upon the type of sections of filaments.

DTY yarn can be made with several combinations of Intermingle points - it can be Non-Intermingle (NIM) having 0 - 10 knots/meter or Semi-Intermingle (SIM) having 40 - 50 knots/meter or High-Intermingle (HIM) having 100 - 120 knots/meter. These knots are not actually the knots tied when two threads are broken but they are the tangle knots created by heating pressure. These Intermingle yarns, also known as Interlaced yarn, are the replacement for lightly twisted yarns. Polyester DTY yarn can also be twisted to high twists like 1500 TPM or 4000 TPM (twist per meter). Garment sublimation printing in Vietnam.

Variations on the Basic Polyester
Adding a dulling agent -
Polyester is a naturally bright fiber, but can be made dull or semi-dull by the addition of a TiO2.
Changing the shape of the holes in the spinneret.
The simplest and most common shape is a circle, but by changing the shape of the spinneret, square, oval, and bean-shaped fibers can be formed. One can even create a hollow fiber. The different shapes affect the hand and strength of the fiber.
Drawing out the fiber to five times its original length is normal, but polyester can be stretched even further. Drawing it out more than normal may also affect the strength, elasticity, and dye-ability.
Adding dye stuffs
In its natural state, polyester is a slightly transparent off-white. Adding dye-stuffs at the manufacturing stage can create brilliant colors like electric blue and atomic red.
Crimping
When the fiber is drawn out it is long and smooth. Crimping can give the fiber more texture and bulk and can increase its insulation properties, as well as its elasticity. Another word for this is texturizing.


Any questions about garment sublimation printing in Vietnam ask us!



Here are some polyester fabrics sewn into garments by Santoni.

Dye Sublimation Printing in Vietnam

In 2009 I was asked to find a good dye sublimation printing company in Vietnam. I have been searching ever since. It is now 2013 and I know who is doing dye sub in Vietnam. Few. Those who do it are good but small compared to dye sub operators in China. Those who do it in Vietnam are expensive compared to operators in China.

Digital dye sub exists in Vietnam but the heat presses that are used are limited in dimension because they are the vertical press types. There is only one calender that I know of and the company is not a specialist in dye sub for garments.

Offset dye sub exists in Vietnam and the cost is reasonable. There is one big offset dye sub company but they are difficult to work with and have high MOQs. The small offset dye sub companies are easier to work with and have lower MOQs. In general offset dye sub is cheaper but does not give the bright and sharp colors as digital dye sub. Especially if the fabric is ringspun polyester which is common in Vietnam.

If you are interested in dye sublimation company in Vietnam then email me and I will be happy to advise you.

What is pique fabric in Vietnam?

Pique fabric in Vietnam is double cloth with two warps (one heavy, one fine) and two wefts or fillings (one heavy, one fine).

Pique fabric in Vietnam includes bird's-eye pique, spiral pique and pigskin pique.
The construction of pique fabric comprises lots of tiny holes and a smooth back. This helps to pull moisture from the skin and wick it into the air, keeping the fabric, and the wearer, relatively dry and cool.
Cotton pique fabric in Vietnam is very durable therefore it is great for

summer dresses, blouses and childrens' clothing.


Why people love knitted jersey in Vietnam?

Everybody loves wearing cozy knitted jersey in Vietnam.
The knitted jersey in Vietnam fabric is warm, flexible, stretchy, and very insulating. Jersey also tends to be soft, making it very comfortable to wear closet to human body.

The stretch factor is another reason that makes people love to wear knitted jersey in Vietnam. The fabric can stretch up to 25% percent along its grain. People wearing knitted jersey are free to move while fabric is still clinging to the body.

Knit dresses, favourite clothes for summer are usually made from jersey fabric, taking advantage from clingy characteristic of the fabric which makes knitted jersey in Vietnam impresses body type of the wearers. Jersey fabric is also available in a large assortment of colors and patterns to suit all tastes.


Thai Son S.P Garment factory produces knitted jersey in Vietnam.

Cotton knit fabrics in Vietnam

The knitted fabrics are quite different from woven fabrics in which yarn lie in straight line resulting in rigid structure and less elongation.
Cotton knit fabrics in Vietnam is used as raw material for the manufacture of
undergarments and knitwear.
Generally, hosiery yarn of count 20s-40s is being used for the manufacture of cotton knit fabrics in Vietnam.


Cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam


How Cotton Jersey Fabric in Vietnam is Made


Cotton Jersey fabric in Vietnam is knitted using either a flat weft or circular knitting machine. A series of needles in the machine help produce interlocking loops of thread. Stitches are small, even and consistent, Cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam, therefore, has a flat, smooth face with a back that is more textured.
The Material
Cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam is typically light and comfortable. It is easy to stretch the fabric and the fabric has soft hand feel. Cotton Jersey Fabric in Vietnam can come in a variety of colors and can be made from 100 percent cotton, or from a mixture of cotton and synthetic materials. It is a common component in casual wear.
Uses
Cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam is widely used for clothing and other fabric items. It is a popular T-shirt fabric, women's summer dresses, stretchy pants, other comfort wear and is sometimes used for soft bedding.
Working with Cotton Jersey in Vietnam
Before sewing cotton jersey, prewash the fabric and dry it in a hot dryer, because cotton tends to shrink and it is better for the shrinkage to occur before you start sewing. Because cotton jersey stretches, it is important to use plenty of pins when pinning a pattern to avoid overstretching the fabric while sewing. When washing store-bought cotton jersey, wash in cold water and use the dryer's low heat setting to avoid unwanted shrinking.

Cotton Jersey Fabric in Vietnam

Vietnam has never been strong in cotton jersey fabric production due to lack of raw cotton and lack of investment in to machinery and training. China prices were always hard to beat. Now that is changing. Cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam is becoming easier to find at good prices. Knitting and Dyeing houses are easier to find and have more experience. The raw material for cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam still needs to be imported but the yarn prices are the same that China pays. Thai Son S.P. Garment factory produces cotton jersey fabric in Vietnam at competitive prices. They can sew the fabric into garments as well. 
Contact the sales team for prices and delivery lead times.
Ring Spun Polyester in Vietnam is available and easily knitted. The issue with Ring Spun Polyester compared to DTY Polyester is that Ring Spun has greater pilling properties and uneven thickness. Ring Spun polyester in Vietnam tends to be hairy which gives it a hand feel of cotton. Ring Spun Polyester works for thicknesses between 6 and 120.
Airjet spinning is the alternate way of spinning polyester. There are two types: MJS and MVS. MJS stands for Murat Jet and MVS stands for Muratta Vortex. The yarn thickness is between 10 to 48.
 
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